Having left the world famous Haman in Old Nicosia around 2pm there is still time to enjoy the late autumn sun. November temperatures in Cyprus are quite remarkable even in November. After an unforgettable massage made more appealing by the knowledge that the treatments afforded my wife (Michelle), attained for her, the unique satisfaction brought on by skin exfoliation, I decide to reflect on this City that I have grown to love.
Almost all great cities exude ambience: Nicosia is no exemption. Paris is romantic, Venice haunting. Nicosia is perhaps a combination of the two yet intensified by a sense of “bitter sweet” given its sad past and current division.
As I a look around and soak up the atmosphere, what inspires me most is the resilience of the Greek Cypriot people undefeated in their determination to deliver good old fashioned hospitality ………. 18 months after a financial crisis that would have crushed most cities. A new dynamic has emerged witnessing the re- birth of Old Nicosia.
Our stroll takes us to the thriving Ledra Street. A place alive with bustling cafes and craft shops. Alongside traditional Cypriot Tavernas is a rich assortment of international cuisine. From Armenian delicacies to “Rustico Italian” with most eateries providing an al fresco option.; as a Londoner we regard this as a luxury reserved mainly for summer, Nearby, we tasted specially prepared cheeses and dishes dazzling even Michelle`s discerning pallet. Later we sampled the most incredible fig chutney at the trendy Mouton restaurant which as places go is “the piece de resistance”.
Too full to venture elsewhere, I decided to defer a trip to the Archbishops Palace and Museum until the following day. Michelle is a great fan of Byzantine art. If the art proves as evocative as the exhibits in the Leventis Gallery, we are in for a treat.
We end up at the Hilton in Archbishop Makarios 111 Avenue only to discover, in the bar area, a wonderful two piece jazz ensemble playing my kind of music. The singer accompanied by a talented saxophonist round off the night with a rendition of “My Funny Valentine”. My wife looks at me with romance in her eyes ……. not bad after 26 years of marriage.
I believe Nicosia has turned the corner and we can all be optimistic about its future.
To the thousands of Greek Cypriots in London, I say. “You don’t know what you’re missing”!!!!!!
Michael Janes (LGR)